| SDek Rail - Aluminum post frame with H-Rail bottom rail and tempered glass - Page 3 |
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Step 9: From the top of the post, snap the post glazing track into
the same channels that the filler bar was placed, and slide downward until seated on top of the bottom rail. When this
step is completed, the bottom rails should be in their final resting place and the post glazing tracks should be ready to recieve the glass. It is normal
for the post glazing tracks to be cut 1/8 inch shorter then the top of the post so they don't interfere with the top rail assembly. |
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Step 10: Start from one side of the deck and install each panel of
glass in order. If the weather is hot and / or dry, you should completely wet down both post glazing tracks as well as the bottom rail track using a simple
solution of cold water and a few drops of dish soap. Only wet down the glazing tracks for the opening you are working on. The glass panel slides down
the post grooves starting from the top until it is seated into the bottom rail. Be careful not to hit the glass edges on any metal at the top of
the post when doing this to avoid breakage. When the glass panels are installed, the top edges should be sitting approx. 1/4 inch above the posts. The
top edge will later hide up into the anchor rail. |
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Step 11: This photo shows the typical screw placement to
fasten the anchor rail onto the posts using 2 - # 10 x 5/8" drill-x screws. You will note it is a cross or "kitty corner" pattern. The screws will pass
through the anchor rail and bite into the post top clips you installed earlier. |
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Step 12: When a deck span is over our stock length of
20 feet, several pieces of anchor rail are used to complete the run. Each piece should butt joint half way or 3/4 inch over the post. In this case, use
4 - # 10 x 5/8" drill-x screws. If the run is over 40 feet, then the same procedure applies for as many pieces needed to complete the run. The goal is to
have all anchor rail butt joints secured over a given post - not between them. |
